There are certain pieces of automotive glass
that have clips, tabs, or nuts that will
restrict the removal of the glass. If you aren’t
certain regarding a particular vehicle, pull the
interior trim back away from the pinch weld and
determine the type of glass you’re dealing with.
Otherwise you may wonder why the glass won’t
release only to find out its bolted in or there
are metal tabs restricting its release.
Sometimes there are alignment clips on the
corners of the glass or encapsulation and can
restrict its release. Those areas of restriction
can fool even the most experienced making them
wonder why the glass won’t release.
One of the many benefits of using the Inductor
is those alignment clips will still remain on
the glass after the glass has been removed. When
using a blade or knife, those clips will always
be cut off.
In order to remove automotive glass, place the
Glass Blaster head on the outside portion of the
glass directly over the pinch weld. The
electromagnetic or high frequency magnetic field
travels through the nonmagnetic glass and
urethane bead without exciting the molecules of
The field of energy emitted from the Glass
Blaster head excites the molecules of the metal
pinch weld where the urethane bead is attached.
As the molecules of the metal are excited and
collide with each other, the metal instantly
Some people in the salvage yard industry have
used a micro-torch on the pinch weld from the
inside of the vehicle to heat and release the
urethane bond. The problem with this method is
the whole interior has to be removed which is
time consuming and there is still the risk of
starting a fire.
Once the metal reaches the temperature that the
urethane will release from the metal, you will
begin to see the urethane begin to smoke. At
that point, begin to move the Glass Blaster head
around the glass perimeter where the glass is
bonded to the pinch weld at a rate of roughly
one centimeter per second.
usually will heat and release a section of 6
inches to 1 foot initially. Then with a
plastic L-wedge or
place the L portion of the wedge behind the
glass hooking into the pinch weld allowing
leverage to put slight outward pressure on the
Once you get the initial release of the glass,
continue to move the Glass Blaster head around
the rest of the glass. Depending on the
flexibility of the glass, you may use either the
metal wedge or the plastic one.
Once the urethane is released, it won’t re-stick
so it’s not necessary to keep the released
portions of the glass separated from the pinch
weld, especially windshields. Placing wedges
around the windshield will just add more
pressure on the glass, increasing the risk of
Some of these instructions can vary from car to
car depending on the distance the magnet is to
the pinch weld, the type of urethane used, and
whether the paint the manufacturer used is well
adhered to the primer and e-coat.
Sometime when the glass is removed, the paint
will still be attached to the primer and e-coat
and other times the paint will be attached to
the urethane and the e-coat on the pinch weld.
Either way the pinch weld is always free of any
If the glass is removed for a body shop with the
intent to remove the quarter panel for instance,
the benefit of using the Inductor is that there
is no need to remove any leftover urethane on
the pinch weld.
The urethane will have been completely removed
from the pinch weld leaving the spot weld
totally visible to be drilled out for panel