Andrew Foote
Mr. Induction
(817) 400-1060
(406) 334-5401
sales@mrinduction.com

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Glass Removal

There are certain pieces of automotive glass that have clips, tabs, or nuts that will restrict the removal of the glass. If you aren’t certain regarding a particular vehicle, pull the interior trim back away from the pinch weld and determine the type of glass you’re dealing with.

Otherwise you may wonder why the glass won’t release only to find out its bolted in or there are metal tabs restricting its release. Sometimes there are alignment clips on the corners of the glass or encapsulation and can restrict its release. Those areas of restriction can fool even the most experienced making them wonder why the glass won’t release.

One of the many benefits of using the Inductor is those alignment clips will still remain on the glass after the glass has been removed. When using a blade or knife, those clips will always be cut off.

In order to remove automotive glass, place the Glass Blaster head on the outside portion of the glass directly over the pinch weld. The electromagnetic or high frequency magnetic field travels through the nonmagnetic glass and urethane bead without exciting the molecules of that substrate.

The field of energy emitted from the Glass Blaster head excites the molecules of the metal pinch weld where the urethane bead is attached. As the molecules of the metal are excited and collide with each other, the metal instantly gets hot.

Some people in the salvage yard industry have used a micro-torch on the pinch weld from the inside of the vehicle to heat and release the urethane bond. The problem with this method is the whole interior has to be removed which is time consuming and there is still the risk of starting a fire.

Once the metal reaches the temperature that the urethane will release from the metal, you will begin to see the urethane begin to smoke. At that point, begin to move the Glass Blaster head around the glass perimeter where the glass is bonded to the pinch weld at a rate of roughly one centimeter per second.

I usually will heat and release a section of 6 inches to 1 foot initially. Then with a plastic L-wedge or metal L-wedge, place the L portion of the wedge behind the glass hooking into the pinch weld allowing leverage to put slight outward pressure on the glass.

Once you get the initial release of the glass, continue to move the Glass Blaster head around the rest of the glass. Depending on the flexibility of the glass, you may use either the metal wedge or the plastic one.

Once the urethane is released, it won’t re-stick so it’s not necessary to keep the released portions of the glass separated from the pinch weld, especially windshields. Placing wedges around the windshield will just add more pressure on the glass, increasing the risk of breakage.

Some of these instructions can vary from car to car depending on the distance the magnet is to the pinch weld, the type of urethane used, and whether the paint the manufacturer used is well adhered to the primer and e-coat.

Sometime when the glass is removed, the paint will still be attached to the primer and e-coat and other times the paint will be attached to the urethane and the e-coat on the pinch weld. Either way the pinch weld is always free of any urethane glue.

If the glass is removed for a body shop with the intent to remove the quarter panel for instance, the benefit of using the Inductor is that there is no need to remove any leftover urethane on the pinch weld.

The urethane will have been completely removed from the pinch weld leaving the spot weld totally visible to be drilled out for panel replacement.