are two types of leverage L-wedges that can be
utilized in leveraging the glass away from the
pinch weld. Of the two types of L-wedges,
plastic or metal, I prefer to use the plastic
L-wedge on glass that is less flexible such as
windshields. I’ve done hundreds of windshields
and been extremely successful removing them
without damaging them, breaking only those when
I was in a hurry.
Windshield removal success requires a little
patience. Let the Inductor Glass Blaster do the
work. Don’t muscle it out.
also found that the heat that remains even after
the Glass Blaster head is moved to another
location, continues to act releasing the
urethane. So just keep moving around the
perimeter rather than “muscling” the glass out.
Remember, patience is a virtue.
sure to use either the Cold Shield Thermal Gel
or at least spray a mist of water from a spray
bottle on any painted surface to give added
protection from overheating the paint and
thereby discoloring or damaging the painted
surface. When using the thermal gel, I prefer to
use the bead mode of the spray nozzle rather
than the mist mode allowing me to put a thick
bead on the painted surface adjacent the glass.
I also utilize the gel when there is
encapsulation around the glass and I want to
make sure the metal surface doesn’t get too hot
to damage the rubber.
times I will begin the initial break loose point
on the glass in a hidden area such as the cowl
or any unpainted surface like a windshield
pillar on some trucks like Chevrolet. The
initial break point takes a little bit longer.
Once the glass has been broken free at a
particular point, the glass is more easily
leveraged and the glass releases much quicker as
you work your way around the rest of the glass.
begin, place the glass blaster attachment
directly over the point at which the urethane is
bonded to the pinch weld. Heat an area
approximately 8-12 inches in length. A good way
to determine whether the pinch weld is heated to
a proper temperature to release the glue is you
will see the urethane smoking or the thermal gel
see the urethane begin to smoke or gel bubbling,
move the attachment slowly at a rate of
approximately .5 to 1 centimeter per second.
After working a length of about a foot, use the
plastic L-wedge hooking the L portion between
the pinch weld and glass and leverage outward.
You will see the glass move outward as it breaks
free from the bond on the pinch weld. The
urethane will remain attached to the glass
leaving the pinch weld clean. The point where
the glass quits moving is the point at which the
windshield is still attached to the pinch weld.
you see the windshield is beginning to become
loose, you can continue to use the L-wedge or
place the palm of your hand behind the
windshield and using slight outward pressure,
continue to work the entire perimeter loose from
the pinch weld. After you have worked around the
entire windshield, double check and make sure
the bond is totally free all the way around the
made the mistake thinking a windshield was
totally released. I leaned it out, top first,
only to find the urethane was completely
released except for one small string of caulking
on one of the seams of the cowl panel. The
urethane had released from the pinch weld but a
piece of caulking was still stuck to the
you can guess what happened at that point of
attachment…crack. 20 minutes worth of work
wasted in one brainless moment. Sometime it
helps to know what not to do as much as it does
what to do.